National Day of Vodun

January 10^th was the National Day of Vodun (Voodoo).

Benin is the birthplace of the religion that we know as Voodoo, believed to be one of the oldest religions in the world.. the Voodoo here is not like the Voodoo that we generally think of in the states when someone mentions it. There are no “voodoo dolls” and no curses.

During our pre-service training, a Vodun Priestess came to speak to us for a culture session. She explained that when people were shipped to America and the Caribbean as slaves.. they brought their Voodoo with them. However, because of the distance from its heart (here in Benin) and because of the bad things that happened during the voyage and life in America.. the religion went sour. Hence the fact that is no longer the same religion as it was when it left the continent. In Benin Voodoo (locally called Vodun) is a religion of good and good things. It is acknowledged hat bad magic does exist, however, this is not Vodun. The bad magic often misrepresented as Vodun is sorcery or witchcraft. Being called a sorcerer or a practitioner of witchcraft is a very very bad thing. (This may have happened to some friends and I at a buvette a few weeks ago.. there was yelling and screaming.. and we got out of there ASAP when we realized that the fighting was being “caused” because of our “sorcery”) Voudun is meant to protect you against bad things and evil spirits. If you would like to read more about the Voodoo of Benin you can do that on wikipedia.

Vodun is the most widely practiced religion in Benin. Most people practice Vodun, even those who claim their first religion as Muslim or Catholic. Vodun is very much a part of culture and way of life in Benin. When a person tells you they don't “believe” in Vodun.. most likely they believe it very much, they just are trying to tell you that they do not practice it. For most of the 1900s the practice of Vodun was banned (mostly under communist regime). With democracy came freedom to practice Vodun as was as other animist religions in the north of the country. In the 1990s the people of Benin were granted Vodun Day as a National holiday in honor of their religion and to honor the rich culture of what was once the kingdom of Dahomey.. and also as a feteing equivalent to the national holidays allowed for Catholic and Muslim citizens.

***

To be completely honest – when I was invited to a fete for Vodun Day – I was excited for the cultural opportunity BUT very nervous about the various potential animal sacrifices I might have to sit through (or cry through). Knowing that chicken sacrifice is a big part of the Vodun Day fete.. and that our local Vodun priest has absolutely no aversion to the animal sacrifices I thought this might just be a sure thing. But that is half of why I'm here right? For the cultural experience? Luckily we made it through the whole day without the loss of any small animals (to my knowledge). Sigh of relief.

Early in the morning (Zoe early not real world early) we headed over to the home of the man who invited us (a local Vodun Priest). We were given our first beers of the day – yay breakfast – and then waited for the rest of his crew to show up. At which point we all loaded up on to the moto entourage and went to the local President of Vodun's house. This is where we sat around in a large room and watched the ceremonies that were taken place in Ouidah on a very small television screen until it was time to head over to the fete. Which by the way turned out to be taking place only a 5 minute walk away from chez moi. Oh well.. we got to show up with the VIP party.. I guess I can deal with getting up early for that.

When we got to the fete, taking place on the front lawn of the mayor's office... we were sat on the stage with all of the honored guests... a King.. Village Chiefs.. Vodun priests.. the whole lot. So now I can say I have sat on a stage with a king. Cool.

The actual fete reminded me of what it must be like to sit on the judging table at the end of a parade. Group of worshipers for different gods came up to the front of the stage and sang songs.. danced dances.. many of them had their deity with them to dance along. There were Zangbetos and other Vodun characters (for lack of a better word) wandering around the fete throughout the day. My favorite was the Vodun dressed in an outfit made entirely of neckties. After lots of singing and dancing there was a pause in the festivities so that all of the important people could get a chance to speak to the audience. And then the dancing and singing continued. At one point a group of men who had preformed the singing (and dancing) of the national anthem noticed the yovo's sitting on the stage and started singing yovo yovo until we got up and danced... the whole crowd was cheering for us.. thank you Africa. This whole event lasted about 4 hours. (My camera died about half way through – Africa has gotten to it – it no longer charges correctly.)

Once the public fete was over we went BACK to the Presidents house to have some pate for dinner.. and more drinks.. the mandatory photo opp for everyone to have a picture with the yovos... and then we headed home before it got dark.

We were all invited back for the second day of Vodun Fete... no fete actually lasts the prescribed number of days in this county. I think it was New Years Day for a whole week after the New Year. Unfortunately, we all had programs for Friday. I am sure it would have been a lot of fun (and they were going to give us t-shirts for day 2 too). We can do that next year now that we know!

Just Another Surreal Day,
Z